The shape of the housing, number of screws, etc., varies with make, but once you get to the innards, they're all pretty much the same. This particular model says nothing at all on the housing itself, but says "Toastmaster" on the bottom. I'm thinking it was marketed by Wearever, but don't quote me on that. (This is my secondary back-up in case both Gourmet and Salton go bad on me ;-)
Removing the three #1 philips screws and nuts won't allow the two sections to come apart until the metal flange is uncrimped. I think I just used pliers for that, bending the metal only as far as necessary. The metal isn't really that thick, and it's not really crimped in that far anyway. Basically, it's a bit of a bother, but not difficult at all. The top half then just pops off, exposing the mica composite board which just free floats.
Since the mica board is free floating, it simply pivots over at the power cord.
An overview of the bottom side of the mica board. One option is to jam something behind the bi-metallic strip so it can't open. Here, a brad is wedged in to serve that purpose. The advantage is that it's easily undone... if by some chance you want to convert back to popping corn.
A potential downside is that if the brad isn't a tight fit, the vibration of operation (minimal though it is) might dislodge it and it could fall down into the blower.
Thermostat closeup. (Thanks Eric! :-)
An easier, and more permanent thermostat bypass is accomplished by simply squeezing the frame together in such a way that the points can't open.
Also visible here is the thermal fuse, which is clearly marked to open (melt) at 216°C.